[ITR] F.AQ. Aspirazione

Messaggio da **KeTaMiNa** » venerdì 28 agosto 2009, 10:40

Ho trovato per caso questo 3D in rete e visto che ci sono numerisi dati ho pensato di condividerlo con voi. Non ho postato solo un linck perchè altrimenti non se lo sarebbe cagato nessuno...

team-integra.net ha scritto:This thread is for those who are stuck navel gazing at intakes.

Da Notorious Links List:

Brand New Intake Showdown!!!

Replacement Intake & Filter for Comptech Icebox by SurferX

Comptech Icebox Fitment Issues with ABS Pump in OBD1 Gen 3 GSR's

Headlamp Mounted Intakes

Warning about Cheap ebay Intakes

Can I Put a GSR intake on an LS IM, or an ITR intake on a GSR IM , or an LS Intake on an ITR/GSR (use your logic to get this one right) ?

Heat Wrap for Intakes

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BASICS YOU SHOULD KNOW BY NOW:

1. Get the Specs (Length & Diameter) !!:

Effect of Changing Intake Length on Volumetric Efficiency at Each RPM (Constant Diameter. Intake has the same diameter for each length change. No taper.):

Intake Diameter Considerations Other than Peak hp: Relationship to TB bore

CAI (blue) vs. Short Ram (Red) [Same Diameter in Both on the Same Engine Package on the Same Dyno done on the same day]

2. The Cold Air Hype:

A thermistor mounted at the intake measuring under the hood temperatures while the car is moving

Another thermistor is mounted ambiently at the side mirror.
When you compare under hood temps to ambient when the CAR IS MOVING:

That's 70.5 F ambient vs. 78.2 F under the hood in case you can't see it or we lose the pics in the future.

They say for every 11 degrees F drop you gain 1 crank hp or 0.85 whp. So you can take it from here about the conclusions that you should make about "cold air" power differences by using a fender mounted CAI WHEN THE CAR IS MOVING (and yes air does get into the bay at higher speeds too) .

That should also clue you in to whether you actually need to heat wrap your short ram's arm or fabricate a very nice stainless heat shield in the engine bay to reflect heat, if it doesn't warm up the intake air as much as you think.

3. STOP the Hydrolock Scare Hype NOW
AEM F.A.Q. ha scritto:The AEM Bypass Valve is used to protect the engine from hydro locking. Hydro locking occurs when the end of the inlet pipe is submerged in water and the water is sucked into the engine. Driving the vehicle in rainy conditions is not enough to cause a problem unless the vehicle becomes submerged enough that the inlet end of the pipe is immersed in water. Rain impingement on the filter will not cause a hydro lock condition. The distance of the filter from the road dictates the level of water that can cause damage. This distance varies with the vehicle ride height which is why there are no published numbers for this measurement.

All AEM Cold Air Intakes are to be used with the splash shield that is originally installed on the vehicle for protection and performance. The removal of splash shields actually deteriorates performance by allowing hot pavement air in the vicinity of the filter and negates any positive pressure created in the air filter area when the vehicle is in motion.

4. Banal Filters Topics Part 1: Which K&N do I get?

If you want to know what k&n filter fits your DC2 ITR intake:

K&N RU2820 (left), RU3130 (center), Stock (right)

Use the stock filter elbow , chuck the paper filter portion, attach your K&N filter to the elbow...simple. If you already have an elbow on your intake tube and want to keep your intake pressure box around the filter, then the E2427 is the K&N drop in for you. The 2820 seems to be popular because it has more surface area for filtering than the 3130.

5. The Air Filter Material Meditation (Banal Air Filter Topics Part 2, The Sequel) :

Make your choice. Better filtering vs. Better Flow vs. Compromise Both and Fall in the Middle. I chose the K&N because it flows better than stock (not as good as foam) but filters better than foam. The Apex filter isn't a bad choice either for flow/filter compromises.

6. Add a Velocity Stack

Prototype Racing or Weir Racing make them with silicone collars to attach on the end of your existing intake arm end and you can use a K&N RF 1048 filter with them.

Dyno: Magic intake (with velocity stack) in red is the velocity stack short ram vs a J's tapered CF intake "whale penis" intake in green on the same dyno on the same car.

K&N RF1048 filter on the end of the velocity stack.